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Another day, I skipped out of morning yoga to board a shuttle to the colonial port city of Granada, one of the oldest European settlements in the Americas, dating to 1524.

“Yeah, that’s Ometepe,” said the surfer in his Aussie hippie drawl.

Finally, we headed to Nicaragua’s top tourist attraction: Volcan Masaya, an active volcano that allows you to drive straight up to the rim and look down inside.

A blot of bright crimson lava was visible in the crater, which is said to glow brightly at night.

The baroque, scarred Iglesia La Merced church is one of the oldest buildings I’ve seen in the Americas, first built in 1534, destroyed by pirates, then rebuilt in the 1780s.

After wandering the street markets of Calle Atravesada, I made my way back to San Juan via Nicaragua’s cheap local “chicken bus” system.

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